August 2008 issue
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TERROIR Bricco Rocche, Piedmont, Italy Alfonso Cevola, CSWA loud-shouting, elderly man was the 5:30 a.m. alarm on my first morning at Bricco Rocche this spring. The window was open, it was barely light, and out of the fog that concealed all but a few distant rooftops came a bark in Italian from the man hollering at his young assistant: “Stop that! Be careful with that soil. Do not dig too close to the vines. Don’t squander the dirt.” Bricco Rocche is a small hill in Castiglione Falletto, where some of the world’s great Barolos are born. My f...
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