October 2008 issue

Gallery

PAGES (66-72) October 2008

The Finger Lakes Patricia Savoie

High-quality wine grapes shouldn’t grow in the heart of New York state’s snowbelt, where the continental climate provides frigid, snow-laden winters and short, humid summers. But they do grow in the Finger Lakes region. With about 11,000 acres under vine, the Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area is the largest AVA in New York state and the second-largest U.S. wine-producing area after California.

The four major lakes—long and narrow, resembling the fingers on a giant hand—are what make grape growing possible. Withdrawal of the glacier at the end of the Ice Age 10,000 years ago gouged out the 435-foot depth of Cayuga and the 600 feet of Seneca, creating two of the deepest lakes in the United States. Their climatic influence is to temper extremes; in spring, when late frosts can kill the new buds and doom the crop, the cold lakes actually delay the budding of the vines, protecting them from the frost. During summer, the lakes store heat, reducing the difference between day- and nighttime temperatures and thus lengthening the growing season. Just before harvest, their stored warmth helps ward off damaging frosts. And in winter, they bring heavy, wet lake-effect snow to blanket and protect the vines.

Unfortunately, this viticultural system is not foolproof. In both 2004 and 2005, extremely cold winters destroyed many of the vines. In terms of overall quality, however, the 2004, 2005, and 2006 vintages are all considered good, with 2006 the best, based on its ideal levels of rainfall and average daily temperatures below 80ºF.

FINGER LAKES WINE HISTORY

Although wine has been made here since the late 1800s, only a handful of wineries survived Prohibition. One of the founding fathers of modern Finger Lakes wine was Charles Fournier, a French vintner who arrived in the 1950s. His mission at Gold Seal Winery was to upgrade the sparkling wines being made with native grapes, and his introduction of French-American hybrids, which combined cold tolerance with the desirable taste profiles of European wines, brought a resurgence in wine production.

As most students of wine know, it was Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant, who championed Vitis vinifera grapes in the eastern United States in the 1950s. Before that, it was generally believed that these varieties could not survive the harsh winters. But Frank grafted the vines onto the hardy, native rootstock, planted vineyards, and built a winery on the western shores of Keuka Lake. The first vintage produced by his Vinifera Wine Cellars was 1962.

By 2000, there were 61 Finger Lakes wineries. Today, according to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, there are 105, most located along the shores of Cayuga, Seneca, and Keuka lakes. With the exception of a few large producers—and Constellation Brands, based in Hammondsport, N.Y.—most producers are small, due in large part to a 1976 state law that encouraged the establishment of farm-based wineries.

FINGER LAKES GRAPE VARIETIES

The recent upsurge in the number of wineries means that most are relatively new, and many vintners are still experimenting to find the grape varieties that work best in their microclimates. Although the native Concord, Catawba, Seyval Blanc, and Baco Noir varieties are still grown, more producers are now making wines from vinifera grapes, primarily Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. In fact, between 2001 and 2006, planted acreage was up 46% for Cabernet Franc and 9% for Pinot Noir. While native grapes still represent the largest crops, according to the 2006 National Agricultural Statistics Service and New York Fruit Tree and Vineyard survey, their planted acreage is generally declining compared to the vinifera varieties.

Despite the appellation’s growing reputation for quality, most Finger Lakes wines don’t make it past the state’s borders: first, because most of them are snapped up by locals, and second, because many people, including sommeliers and wine buyers, are still unfamiliar with them. Since Riesling is considered the star of the region, it’s the wine found most often on lists outside New York. Only 100,000 cases of Riesling are produced annually in New York (by comparison, Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle alone makes more than 700,000 cases a year), but it is among the fastest-growing varieties in terms of acreage, which increased by 60% between 2001 and 2006. The largest producers, Dr. Konstantin Frank (at 4,500 annual cases of dry Riesling) and Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard (3,100 cases), now boast long lists of gold medals from various competitions. Chateau LaFayette Reneau, Standing Stone Vineyards, and Treleaven Wines are other important Riesling makers.

Says Frederick Frank, son of Willy and grandson of Konstantin, “As our region matures, we are seeing more grape specialization. To be successful on a national basis, you have to produce a wine that is consistent. Riesling is consistent here.” Finger Lakes Rieslings generally feature some residual sugar to balance their gripping acidity. They pair well with a broad range of foods: fish, shellfish, poultry, foie gras, pastas with cream sauces, spicy foods, Asian dishes, and creamy cheeses.

PROMISE OF THE REGION

Bob Madill, chair of the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance and a partner in Sheldrake Point Vineyard, feels that “aromatic white wines and rosé represent the strong suit for the Finger Lakes.” This category certainly includes Riesling, but also Gewürztraminer (now with 75 acres planted), Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc. Madill says these wines have been consistent over several vintages, meaning that “the quality of the wine has generally been better than just acceptable across most of the Finger Lakes producers, with a character that reflects the vintage. The wines tend to retain their essential fruit and freshness.” Gewürztraminers are particularly attractive, offering notes of roses, litchi nuts, and spices. Hermann Wiemer is the largest producer, but Lamoreaux Landing and Dr. Konstantin Frank make outstanding examples as well.

Reds are more challenging, since the American market is generally used to ripe, jammy, soft, alcoholic wines. Finger Lakes reds are cool-climate wines, more European in style, with dark red fruit, fresh acidity, and medium body. “It’s not that our Cabernet Francs, Pinots, and Lemberger wines are not quality,” says Madill, “it’s that they have less appeal for consumers who treat wine as an aperitif rather than as a food accompaniment. The more the consumer begins to understand and enjoy wine with food, the more opportunity we in the Finger Lakes will have to present our wines.”

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