April 30 2010 issue
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SPECIAL REPORT Tokaji Ben NarasinIstván Szepsy strokes one of the porous white stone columns that line the loggia of his winery. "This is the secret of Tokaji," he says. "It’s the stone that gives us our great acidity." Ten million years ago, the area of Hungary we know as Tokaj was a savage region of flame and magma. Thousands of volcanoes brought up molten rock from the earth’s depths that would ultimately cool into porous and mineral-rich hills. Szepsy credits the gradual erosion of nutrients and minerals, and the blan...
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