June 15 2010 issue

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PAGES (6) June 15 2010

FOR OPENERS The New Chardonnay David Vogels, CWP

The New Chardonnay is actually returning to its noble origins. If you’ve ever tasted Chardonnay must a few days into fermentation, you know it could make the world’s greatest breakfast drink: citrusy, refreshingly acidic, and a bit fizzy. I owe this experience to Steve MacRostie, who politely explained that his Carneros Chardonnay is too valuable as wine to be sold as a super-Tang. Still, that tasting always made me wonder what was happening to this noble grape between ...

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