1.
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THE WINEMAKER'S ART
Jim Holmes, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Benton City, Wash.
PAGE: 65 -
Premiere Issue
2008
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard is legendary for its soil. Local scientists Jim Holmes and John Williams discovered this corner of Washington’s Columbia Valley back in 1972, when they established their pio
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2.
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CLOSING TIME A gender-bending blind tasting
Bill Daley
PAGE: 74 -
June
2008
Preconceived notions
can lead to gender-bending
confusion for any sommelier.
Take six top wine experts, sort by gender into teams, and in-vite them to Chicago’s NoMI restaurant fo
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3.
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Rioja: Still the Benchmark for Spanish Wine
Doug Krenik, MS, CWE
PAGE: 42 -
May
2009
No other region in Spain embodies both the history and the essence of the country’s wine the way Rioja does. As early as 1560, Rioja producers recognized the importance of the area, banning
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4.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT China Bend Winery, Kettle Falls, Washington
Christina Kelly
PAGE: 48 -
June 15
2010
A couple of unregenerate hippies have found a niche for sulfite-free wines.
More than 30 years ago, Bart and Victory Alexander were told they could never grow organic grapes on
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5.
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SOMMELIER SPOTLIGHT Costanzo Scala, Benares, London
Bennett Voyles
PAGE: 32 -
March 15
2011
An Italian sommelier meets the challenge of Indian cuisine in England.
Chefs are getting more and more adventurous with their spices as they try to keep up with palates raised on
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6.
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IN SERVICE The benefits of serving wine on tap
Julianne Will
PAGE: 18 -
April 15
2012
Wines on tap provide another alternative for serving customers. It’s not often that I belly up to the bar and ask, "What’s on tap?" For me, beer has its place—a relatively small on
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7.
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RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT John Gray's, Caribbean Coast, Mexico
Greg Benchwick
PAGE: 34 -
August
2008
John Gray is a busy man these days.
The American chef, restaurateur, and self-confessed “California beach bum” opened his third restaurant on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, John Gray’s
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8.
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RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT Cyrus, Healdsburg, California
Greg Benchwick
PAGE: 26 -
November
2008
After only three years on the scene, Cyrus has emerged as one of northern California’s preeminent fine-dining establishments.
That’s no small accomplishment in this culinary hotb
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9.
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TASTING PANEL Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminers
David D. Denton, CWE, CSS, IBWE
PAGE: 20 -
February 28
2012
The panel explores a wide range of cuvées from a top Alsace producer. Gewürztraminer rarely gets much love from the sommelier community. In the wrong hands, its floral aromas can turn
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10.
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SOMMELIER SPOTLIGHT Christine Parkinson, Hakkasan, London
Bennett Voyles
PAGE: 36 -
April 15
2012
Buying wine for a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant is a special science. Wine professionals often talk about the chemistry of a wine, but not many could actually sit down and dia
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11.
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SOMMELIER SPOTLIGHT Gérard Margeon, Groupe Alain Ducasse, Paris
Bennett Voyles
PAGE: 36 -
January
2009
Being a sommelier is always a challenge. Being the chief sommelier of a Michelin three-star restaurant is, by most accounts, an even greater challenge.
But being “Monsieur Vin”
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12.
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SOMMELIER SPOTLIGHT David Ridgeway, La Tour d'Argent, Paris
Bennett Voyles
PAGE: 28 -
June
2009
An Englishman holds the cellar key to one of France’s great wine treasures.
In the heart of Paris, not far from Notre Dame, stands La Tour d’Argent (“The Silver Tower”), one of P
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13.
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TASTING PANEL Southwest France
David Denton, CWE, CSS, IBWE
PAGE: 20 -
November 30
2011
A panel samples French varieties ranging from the familiar to the esoteric.
Assembling wines for a Southwest France tasting can be a daunting project. This diverse area, made up
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14.
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Cellaring Champagne after Disgorgement
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 82 -
October 15
2011
The surgery is quick. The green-clad soldier is opened up, the autolysised and decayed cells removed along with some vital fluid. The wound is packed and sealed. With minimal recuperation, t
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15.
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TERROIR Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 60 -
June 15
2011
Icewine is the international calling card of this northerly region.
Bundled in shearling gloves, wool cap, and Sorel boots to battle the cold of our vineyard expedition, I find i
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16.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT Dana Estates, Rutherford, California
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 32 -
January 15
2012
A dynasty takes time to build.
“Mr. Lee is 65, and assuming he lives a long, healthy life, he won’t live to see a return on his investment,” says general manager Pete Perry of Da
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17.
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THE WINEMAKER'S ART
Ben Parsons, Infinite Monkey Theorem, Denver, Colorado
PAGE: 19 -
August 31
2012
In a microbrewing mecca like Denver, winemaker Ben Parsons might seem to be a fish out of water (or beer, as the case may be). These days, however, as fair-trade coffee roasters, craft disti
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18.
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INTERVIEW Vincent Chaperon, Dom Pérignon, Champagne, France
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 24 -
August 31
2012
Making Dom Pérignon is a commitment to history.
Vincent Chaperon has been winemaker for Dom Pérignon for five years, reporting directly to his mentor,
chef de cave
/
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19.
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APPELLATION Commandaria, Cyprus
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 56 -
August 31
2012
The "wine of kings" is still produced by the ancient methods on this eastern Mediterranean island.
The sun shone bright on his back as the Neolithic man stepped out of his ramme
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20.
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RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT Hôtel Le Bristol, Paris
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 28 -
June 15
2010
Tuxedo or blue jeans, Le Bristol is a gastronomic adventure.
There’s an element of "the blind men and the elephant" fable involved in eating at Hôtel Le Bristol in Paris. Talk t
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21.
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SPECIAL REPORT Tokaji
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 90 -
April 30
2010
István Szepsy strokes one of the porous white stone columns that line the loggia of his winery. "This is the secret of Tokaji," he says. "It’s the stone that gives us our great acidity."
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22.
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INTERVIEW Leonardo Frescobaldi, Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, Tuscany, Italy
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 24 -
October 31
2010
Marchese Leonardo Frescobaldi represents the 29th generation of his family to run the winery that has carried their name for seven centuries.
As president of the company, this
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23.
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RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT Manresa, Los Gatos, California
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 24 -
August
2009
Manresa is all about terroir—the terroir of food and place.
“I want Manresa to be unique to where we are,” says chef-owner David Kinch, “in the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mounta
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24.
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INTERVIEW Alessia Antinori, Marchesi Antinori, Florence, Italy
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 40 -
November
2009
The 26th generation of a noble Florentine winemaking family extends the company’s global reach.
Alessia Antinori, 33, is the youngest of Marchese Piero Antinori’s three daughters, rep
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25.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT Ovid, Oakville, California
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 36 -
December
2009
A new Napa cult entry features an unusual ingredient: concrete.
It sounds like the classic recipe for a would-be cult-wine: two parts “sold our software company,” one part cult v
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26.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT Skipstone, Geyserville, California
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 36 -
January 31
2010
An obsession with detail may propel this Alexander Valley start-up to the head of the class.
To understand why Skipstone makes excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier, you migh
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27.
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Oregon’s Willamette Valley: Islands of Terroir
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 64 -
December
2008
The cracks in the 2,000-foot dam began to form slowly at first, almost undetectably. Life carried on peacefully in the dry Willamette Valley below, as it had for eons. But the effect of the
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28.
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SPECIAL REPORT Sherry
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 42 -
March
2009
Nothing stands out to a jaded gastronome like the sublime combination of a new wine discovery and a perfect pairing. Sherry is uniquely capable of providing such an epiphany, whether in its
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29.
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RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT Passionfish, Pacific Grove, California
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 32 -
April
2009
Sustainable fishing practices, environmentally friendly products, and retail wine pricing are all part of the formula at Monterey’s Passionfish restaurant.
In her youth, Cindy Wa
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30.
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Montsant: The “Other” Priorat
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 52 -
November
2008
Spain’s recent success in producing high-quality wines at economical prices—first from Rioja, and more lately from Priorat—is paving the way for its lesser-known appellations. It’s a repeati
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31.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT Blackbird Vineyards, Oak Knoll District, California
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 44 -
August
2008
A three-word, hand-scrawled change in an employment contract bought Michael Polenske his dream vineyard in Napa Valley.
Now, five years later, his Blackbird Vineyards is flying a
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32.
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The Emerging Napa Valley Cult Contenders
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 70 -
November 30
2012
The term "cult wine" polarizes. Some winemakers despise the designation as elitist—which it is—and unfairly biased toward a select group of wines, as one could certainly argue. But wheth
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33.
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RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT Namu Gaji, San Francisco
Ben Narasin
PAGE: 40 -
January 15
2013
The Lees’ latest effort has struck a chord with consumers and professionals
alike.
Namu Gaji is the kind of restaurant where restaurant people go afte
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34.
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Whiskey on the Rebound
Kara Newman
PAGE: 82 -
September 15
2010
It’s not Grandpa’s drink any more. Whiskey is taking on new life, particularly among the younger consumers who are rediscovering the brown spirit. Meanwhile, bars and restaurants are ramping
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35.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT Weingut Kracher, Illmitz, Austria
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 42 -
July 31
2010
An iconic Austrian winery copes with the sudden loss of its patriarchs. Burgenland is the wet, low-lying part of southeastern Austria that surrounds Lake Neu-siedl, a forelimb-shaped
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36.
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INTERVIEW Frédéric Drouhin, Maison Joseph Drouhin, Beaune, France
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 20 -
June 15
2010
The family history of Drouhin wine has reached its fourth generation.
"Have you ever skated through a catacomb?"
Frédéric Drouhin pointed down a nearby tunnel carve
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37.
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INTERVIEW Royal Tokaji, Tokaj, Hungary
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 36 -
March 15
2011
Tradition meets the future in a new facility for an audacious Tokaj producer.
In 1990, Royal Tokaji was the first foreign company to be established in the Tokaj wine region of
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38.
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APPELLATION Snake River Valley, Idaho and Oregon
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 42 -
April 30
2011
Idaho wines are beginning to catch the nation’s attention.
North America’s continental crust is thin in the Snake River Valley, due in part to the Yellowstone hotspot immediately
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39.
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CLOSING TIME How wine creates culture
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 90 -
October 31
2010
How does wine create culture? How does culture create wine?
“Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been
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40.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Healdsburg, California
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 46 -
April 15
2012
John Jordan has restored the prestige of his family’s iconic winery. John Jordan, second-generation vintner and CEO of Jordan Vineyard & Winery since 2005, believes strongly in
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41.
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COVER STORY Burgenland
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 68 -
May 31
2012
The southeastern district of Burgenland may be Austria’s youngest province, but it has a long tradition of viticulture and winemaking. Its 34,600 acres of vineyards are situated on the Panno
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42.
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INTERVIEW Chester Osborn, D’Arenberg Winery, McLaren Vale, Australia
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 26 -
July 31
2011
This Aussie winemaker is a fourth-generation force of nature.
D’Arenberg Winery is one of the most significant wine operations in the McLaren Vale—in all of Australia for that
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43.
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The Case of Cork versus Alternative Closures
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 69 -
October 15
2011
Allen Meadows, founder of Burghound.com, believes alternative wine closures have attracted fans primar
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44.
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INTERVIEW Eric LeVine, CellarTracker! LLC, Seattle
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 40 -
November 30
2011
This former Microsoft programmer is now a man with a wine plan.
As of September, Eric LeVine’s CellarTracker! had more than 160,000 registered users who were collectively track
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45.
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INTERVIEW Becky Wasserman-Hone, SARL Le Serbet, Beaune, France
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 30 -
February 28
2012
If they don’t drink it, they won’t sell it. The legendary Becky Wasserman-Hone and her husband Russell Hone own and operate SARL Le Serbet/Selection Becky Wasserman (SBW) with the b
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46.
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Calabria: A Land of Contrast and Tradition
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 66 -
January 15
2012
Aniello Musella, the Italian trade commissioner and executive director in the United States, recognizes that Calabria, like most other Italian regions, was long fought over and ruled by powe
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47.
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CLOSING TIME The consequences of overindulgence
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 74 -
September
2008
A lifetime of overindulging can have serious health consequences. Like many sommeliers, I eat and drink too much. Or at least I used to, before I visited the doctor on my most rece
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48.
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INTERVIEW Phil Sexton, Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, Australia
Benjamin T. Weinberg, JD, MBA, MCSE
PAGE: 30 -
May
2009
This brewer-turned-winemaker is setting the pace for artisanal winemaking in Australia’s Yarra Valley.
When Phil Sexton was born in 1954, the wine industry in Western Austral
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49.
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WINERY SPOTLIGHT Robert Foley Vineyards, Napa Valley, California
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 48 -
March
2009
Snuggled up to the backside of Howell Mountain, away from the hustle of Napa but close enough to drive in for dinner, lies Robert Foley’s new winery.
It’s the first crush facilit
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50.
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The Veneto: A Quality Renaissance
Benjamin T. Weinberg
PAGE: 62 -
January 31
2010
The Veneto has long been something of a backwater in the worldwide wine community. One of the wealthiest regions in Italy, it is also the country’s most prolific producer of wine. But critic
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